Mystery • Dante's Mirage In 19/20 A/W Design Development for Menswear

Theme

 

The revival of dark cultures drives the popularity of films and television programs about freaks and unknown phenomena. People turn to mystical things, mondo films and religious power to relieve anxieties in real life. Just as Dante's The Divine Comedy says, "I find that I have lost my way into a dark forest", we are seeking spiritual force in the journey of life, is that an angel, a demon, a cross or astrology?

 

 

Inspiration

 

Alessandro Michele, the creative director of Gucci, is fascinated by the theme of life and death. He pushed the concept of mystery to extremes for the Resort 19 show. Pan in Greek mythology (picture 1-1) is a symbol of panic and nightmare. The skeleton suit (picture 1-2, 1-3) is inspired by the sacred bone of a cardinal in 15th century. The collaborative collection of Gucci Decor (picture 1-4, 1-5, 1-6) with artists also reveal the dark aesthetic. Snake-shape handles and evil eyes are applied to porcelain products.

 

 

Street Style

 

Striking tones and mysterious patterns are typical of this theme. They appear on slouch items to complete a dark street style.

 

 

Color

 

Use eccentric colors to create a fantastic dreamland. The clashing shades contribute to toxic flowers, gold skulls, dynamic bloods and quiet jungles. From black to white, paradise to hell, we are entering the world written by Dante.

 

 

Pattern -- Surreal Imagery

 

Surreal imageries reveal a dark vibe. The female sculpture with two heads, three skulls, bust with flowers, lamb head for sacrifice are horrific.

 

 

Pattern -- Repeated Eyes

 

Eyes are frequently used for a gloomy style. This season, designers play with repeated effects. Black and white pictures with staring eyes are telling dreadful stories.

 

 

Detail -- Decorative Hardware

 

In ancient times, gold accessories were often used as ritual objects and lucky charms. Today, metal hardware becomes decorative, appearing on the edges or in all-over design. Cross and sun shapes add a mystical touch.

 

 

Clothing Collocation -- Autumn

 

Sweatshirt is a key item of autumn. Black forest is a main tone, complemented with cardinal red, bright blue and pops of grass green to complete a bold palette. Sad clowns, random graffiti and blazing flames feel eccentric yet harmonious.

 

 

Clothing Collocation -- Early Winter

 

Jacket plays an important role in dark items. A jacket pairs with a hoodie, colored in cactus pink and grass green to emphasize an uncanny, religious mood.

 

Clothing Collocation -- Winter

 

Voluminous bomber jackets with staring eyes are prevalent in winter. Moss green becomes dominant, accented with flaming gold and cardinal red, and finally balanced with clear white.

 

 

Clothing Collocation -- Late Winter

 

Long puffer coats are indispensable to keep warm in late winter. Blurry pictures and angry portraits sit in line with the gloomy ambience. Neutral colors clash with saturated brights, focusing on versatile cardinal red, clear white and black forest.

 

 

Recommended Brand -- Fausto Puglisi

 

Italian designer Fausto Puglisi launched the brand in 2006. He loves visual culture and mixes pop elements with high arts. He takes inspiration from Sicily, Italian neo-realism movies, American celebrities, Roman gladiators, modern architecture and Baroque style.

 

 

Brand Analysis -- Fausto Puglisi

 

From leather cutting, tropical prints, midnight colors, embossed sun to metal rivets, the A/W 18/19 collection of Fausto Puglisi takes us to the Roman Colosseum. The designer shows his design talent and obsession for primitive beauty.

 

 

Recommended Brand -- Icosae

 

Icosae was created by Valentin and Florentin Glemarec in 2013, known for its unique style and novel technique. Oversized items with special cutting are commercial hits, added with street and religious styles. Details like patches and rivets personify the brand.

 

 

Brand Analysis -- Icosae

 

The S/S 19 collection of Icosae is more delicate. The painting "Girl with a Pearl Earring" is recreated: it is against the black ground with white lightning, or is randomly doodled, feeling bold and rebellious.