The capital of the fairy tale kingdom Denmark, the hometown of the legendary Little Mermaid, one of the largest cities in Northern Europe, Copenhagen has always been synonymous with niche in the fashion industry. After Stockholm Fashion Week was cancelled, Copenhagen Fashion Week became the only representative of Nordic fashion.
Since the first fashion week was held in 1964, compared with the four major fashion weeks, Copenhagen has always existed in a low-key manner, holding on to a niche and unique fashion position, but in the past two years, it has suddenly become an international buyer and media hot object. Without the presence of big names or the blessings of star designers, why is this city full of cutting-edge breath transformed into a spring eye for global fashion in the digital age?
Copenhagen is a cultural representative place of Scandi style such as Other Stories and COS. Although the Nordic style has long been labeled as "sexless", Copenhagen's fashion dictionary is not only appeared minimalism style. In the continuous growth of the Danish fashion industry, it does continue to have a minimalist style with a full sense of luxury, but it also has the design ability to play with contours and colors. Each cutting-edge brand has won the industry's respect and recognition for its excellent creation.
For example, the most popular "Made in Copenhagen"-Cecilie Bahnsen and Ganni have captured the love of many consumers in recent years. Cecilie Bahnsen has built a distinctive brand image with its iconic puff sleeves, large backless and feminine jumpsuits-modern velvet, bows, lace and other elements, combining craftsmanship and details with architectural volume, combined with the silhouette of the sculpture, the feminine sense of the girl yearning and modern temperament can be said to be well-balanced. "This is a combination of a more flashy universe and a more minimalist universe," Bahnsen explained the sculptural brand aesthetic.
On the other hand, Ganni, founded by the Reffstrup couple, initially entered the fashion market with classic printed dresses and leopard prints. In 2017, the private equity firm L Catterton of the LVMH Group and Arnault Group acquired 51% of the company ’s The shares are sold by more than 200 stores in North America, which is now its largest market, and sales have almost doubled in the past year.
In recent years, Ganni has been striving to transform, trying to get rid of its sweet girl image. In the 2020 autumn and winter series released at Copenhagen Fashion Week, strong leather elements and romantic doll collars are combined: in the spring and summer 2019 series, canvas tannins, matte leather, waterproof fabrics and other materials are used in a tough atmosphere However, a lantern sleeve shirt made of crystal ugand yarn, a rainbow-dyed cotton deconstructed jacket, and a pale pink mesh lace dress were also presented.
In addition, there is Stine Goya, which uses the complex copy flowers as the brand logo; ROTATE, which adds bold and confident sexy elements; and Mark Kenly Domino Tan (MKDT), which provides wardrobes for independent women. You can see that many brands are doing the same thing-redefine femininity, high fashion and pragmatism coexist, bring a unique and comfortable fashion experience at a price lower than traditional luxury goods, and integrate it into everyone women's habits.
In the past few years, Copenhagen has been a growing market for many buyers. The global luxury goods monopoly site Net-a-porter has purchased more than 20 fashion brands and called them “explosion-making machines”. Net-a-porter's senior fashion market editor Libby Page said: "Copenhagen has wisely provided this industry with a very private display for cutting-edge designers, and it feels like an exploration journey, and it has also successfully been used as a schedule An important fashion week on the watch is respected. It has witnessed the growth of Ganni, Cecile Bahnsen and Stand, and these brands have also become the pillar brands of Copenhagen Fashion Week. This is also a reason for the continuous return of fashion industry practitioners. "
Indeed, Copenhagen Fashion Week highlights the sought-after Nordic style and keeps the industry interested in it by constantly adjusting its collections and launching new categories. It ’s no wonder that opinion leader Doina Ciobanu would say that you come here to watch shows for clothes, Not because of a big name or to be more famous for being photographed. The brand provides different things: the clothes are very well matched, but there are more practical things.
In addition to Fashion Week, Copenhagen's street shooting has become one of its fashion pulses, which has attracted the attention of fashion people. In the street shooting of traditional fashion week in the past, most of the fashionable people chose the most trendy single item, and the girls in Copenhagen tended to suit their own temperament dress style, simple and friendly but rich in details.
For the control of color, we believe, is the most direct feeling of most people for Copenhagen street photography. The women in the street shot showed us how to digest bright colors with a variety of materials and clever collocations, which just overturned people's traditional impression of the Nordic style, and they all seem to add more personal details to the collocation, such as turbans Gold necklaces, boots with unique textures ... If the style of saying has become a thing of the past, then the smart Copenhagen girl will become a new role model.
What can be called a fashionable factor can actually be a colorful and rich print, and a body-cut tailoring for Nordic girls. From the sloppy neutral style to the colorful blooming feast, add more avant-garde factors. The non-classic Nordic style with Copenhagen's growing influence may become the next trend.
Anyone who has followed the 2020 Copenhagen Fashion Week should know the theme of "sustainability" this year. On January 28, before the start of fashion week, Copenhagen officially released the "Action Plan for Sustainable Development 2020-2022": Reshaping Copenhagen Fashion Week-reducing negative impacts, innovating our business model and accelerating industry change. Cecilie thorsmark, CEO of Fashion Week, urged that all industry participants, including fashion week, must be responsible for their actions and willing to change the way they conduct business. The timeframe for avoiding the devastating effects of climate change on the planet and humanity is not within time Ten years, and we have witnessed today ’s disastrous impact.
In recently, the environmental organization Extinction Rebellion held a protest demonstration during London Fashion Week, criticizing the fashion industry for the negative harm caused by changes in the global climate and environment. The organization had requested the British Fashion Association to cancel London Fashion Week in July.
The eight industry sustainability priorities mentioned in CEO Agenda, where yellow represents the core priorities for immediate implementation and purple represents the transformational priorities for fundamental changes.
Copenhagen Fashion Week to make such a move is by no means formalism. As early as 2009, with the convening of the 15th United Nations Climate Change Conference (UCC), the first Copenhagen Fashion Summit was officially held. Ten years ago, the term sustainable was still an emerging concept for the fashion industry, and was more often seen as a charitable act, but now the fashion industry has become one of the biggest criminals, accounting for global greenhouse gas emissions 10% of the time, the change is urgent. We may be surprised that Copenhagen has become the leader of this movement, but how is it sustainable here?
1. Responsible consumption and production. Fashion activities prohibit the use of disposable plastic bottles; choose organic vegetarian and the most environmentally friendly buses and electric cars; stop production of new seasonal employee uniforms.
2. The first-level sustainable plan for the show. Brands must meet 17 sustainable standards or they will be excluded from the official show, including zero-waste set design, to ensure that unsold clothes are not destroyed. At least 50% of organic or recycled textiles are used in their collections, and Plastic hangers will be officially banned in 2021.
3. Climate action. Measure the total carbon footprint of the activity in order to identify areas where impact can be reduced and continue to search for new solutions.
In order to response to the sustainability plan, local brands have taken action. For example, Soulland's AW20 is 100% made of organic, recyclable or biodegradable materials from fabrics, tags to labels, store shopping bags. Xiaozhong Yuzhichao Rains also uses 3M warm velvet Thinsulate (a high-tech new thermal insulation material made of fine fibers with only 1/25 of human hair. It is currently the best thermal insulation on the European and American markets Thin "warm material" instead of down and feather, choose PU coating with strong environmental protection instead of traditional fabric.
"In rains, sustainability is not limited to specific products. For us, this is a philosophy that covers everything in the design process, from the supply chain to the environment where we sell our concepts."—— Founder of Rains
In addition to the fashion industry, the Danish government's climate policy is to reduce greenhouse gas emissions by 70% in 2030 from 1990 levels. In Copenhagen, more than half of the population chooses to ride. This lifestyle is not only reflected in the fashion industry, but also consistent with the way consumers dress. It is conceivable that the "Nordic style" touted in our mouth turned out to be just an empty shell floating on the surface.
Rethinking the ways of producing, consuming and marketing fashion is a strong signal that Copenhagen brings to the industry, and it also proves that environmental protection does not affect the splendor of a fashion event and does not shake the value of the fashion industry. Vitality, new life, and sense of mission are the keywords I can extract from the entire Copenhagen fashion system. This is a new beginning, and we look forward to a future without fashion victims.