From Rick Owens to Balenciaga's fashion show in Paris Fashion Week

Focusing on Fashion Week, in addition to learning about the fashion trends in the next six months, more fun is exploring the soul of design. 2019 autumn and winter Paris Fashion Week dozens of shows took turns. POP has selected 5 brands that have won the top spot with dark beauty and pioneering features, and has collaged nearly 100 designs for your reference.

Balenciaga
City of the future

In the blink of an incandescent light, the models wearing suits appeared in people's field of vision. When they walked close, the red eyes and the cold look set a certain future tone with the light. The transformation, from warm orange to the pink-blue overlap that seems to fall at night, to the flashlight-like light effect, Demna Gvasalia presents the silhouette of people's daily life in the future city through the concept of time transmitted by the light.

Gvasalia abandoned most of the street style and focused on tailoring. Joining the fourth year of Balenciaga's Demna Gvasalia, this season he has made a new interpretation of the brand, the most recognizable design, and his presentation, through the fine cut, show the quality of the diversity in different angles. Coats are not accidental; those squats that are too short or too long, it is like the cautious rules in ridiculing haute couture.

Off-White
New Century Racing Girl

For those who think his Off-White fashion brand is a printing license, Virgil Abloh brings a humorous message: his autumn show invitation is a clear plastic envelope filled with counterfeit notes. Some of them include the 500 Euro banknotes that are about to be discarded.

From the global fashion search platform Lyst's latest quarterly fashion index brand and product index, Off-White stands out among the street brands, second only to Gucci.

In fact, Abloh seems to be very confident about the brand's momentum, and he has barely included his iconic mark on his runway fashion show - satirical quotes, diagonal stripes and industrial-themed belts. Instead, he uses the stage as a platform to illustrate his brand value.

OFF-WHITE
RTW FALL 2019

After playing track and field themed performances with Nike last season, this time he delved into the motorsports, inspired by the Rockford track, the Nascar track near his hometown of Rockford, Illinois.

SAINT LAURENT
Strong attitude of silhouette shoulder pads

According to Anthony Vaccarello, “Everything starts with the construction of the shoulders”. As in the previous season, we can still see the emphasis on the shoulder design on this week's Saint Laurent show, wearing a shoulder-shouldered coat. Each of the Saint Laurent girls is a Power woman.

Since he took over the brand three years ago, Vaccarello seems to be very comfortable exploring the legacy of Yves Saint Laurent's heritage that is closest to him: short, short and short. The highlight of the season was tailoring, and Vaccarello said that it took him six months to get the right ratio. “These clothes are done by hand,” he explained.

SAINT LAURENT
RTW FALL 2019

Vaccarello once said, "I like black, a woman in a black dress is like a brush." Exquisite lines, neat cuts, inspired by the goddess of the 80s elegance and free spirit symbol - Betty Catroux, Bianca Jagger and Catherine Deneuve.

Rick Owens
Gorgeous

Rick Owens, known as the "Ghost Designer of the Gothic King of Darkness." Diablo is his iconic pioneering design, those that are either dragged to the ground or wrapped around the body, but always look like some "broken" fashion and accessories. The cult is directed at those who like his style. When these fanatical followers wear their faded, pleated and worn clothes, they are soaked in an ink called "Rick Owens". The same, self-contained.

In the autumn and winter of 2019, a series of smooth shoulder-shoulder coats with a jumpsuit opened, Owens has never felt awkward in the sexy. In the second half of the big show, the gray-black costume gradually transitioned to the whole blood red, evil and strange. Of course, the biggest highlight of the season is the makeup of the models. Owens specially invited Salvia, a hot makeup artist on Instagram, to work as a makeup consultant, and worked hard on the model's facial experiment. "Dark Force" played to the end to pay tribute to the rock band Kiss and the 70s.

RICK OWENS
RTW FALL 2019

Behind the hard shell look of Rick Owens is the gentle soul of a fashion designer.

Owens has been writing a book about Larry LeGaspi, the designer of the 1970s in New York, Grace Jones, Funkadelic and The name of Kiss creates costumes. And the impact of the young Rick's growth process.

“He helps make a lot of kids like me free,” he said.

At the same time, Owens also wrote a preface to the newly published big work "Charles James: The Secret of Shapes." The two men, LeGaspi and James, are the aesthetic pillars of Owens.

Comme des Garcons
Sweet darkness

In addition to two bright purple look and yellow check look, the whole series is ALL BLACK, the 2019 autumn and winter fashion runaway show atmosphere is slightly heavier than the previous seasons, continuing the black punk on men's week, this season's women's style A variety of fabric cuts are raised. From fishing nets to velvet, from stiff leather to romantic lace, this collection still has a rich texture and mood.

Comme des Garcons
RTW FALL 2019

The sweetness of the Rei Kawakubo style is so grand and warm, even this season is black. On the autumn and winter show of 1995, Kawakubo was dressed up in a seemingly sweet decoration. The theme revolves around "SWEETER THEN SWEET". It is cute and shackles, and uses unmovable hands to show the values that women must abide by. This season, the "double sleeves" trick was used in the design of the sleeves. In the general social cognition, how many hands do women have? The new modern woman who balances her career and life is both gentle and powerful in Kawakubo.

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